Hangzhou

Day Eight

Waited at the hotel lobby at 7 am for the tour guide and was surprised to see some familiar faces who went with me in the same Suzhou tour; the reason likely could be we all booked from the same tour agency in Shanghai.

While on the coach bus, the tour guide told us an interesting phrase, which was "上车睡觉，下车尿尿，进门拍照，问是什么，都不知道". This phrase was used to describe typical tourists who don't listen to the history of the place described and thus know nothing in the end. That's very common among people who joined tour groups where everything had been pre-arranged and there is no leisure time for them to read the signboards or descriptions.

This Hangzhou day tour would include five main tourist sights and two factory visits.

Dreaming of the Tiger Spring (虎跑梦泉)

First sight: Dreaming of the Tiger Spring. This place is a spring and park in southwestern Hangzhou, and has water that naturally seeps out from the quartzite and is regarded as the third best in whole of China. Legend was told that during Tang Dynasty in year 819, a monk came and can't find any water. At night, he dreamt of two tigers stroking the grounds with their paws and soon spring water came out. The next day he saw the exact scene he dreamt and true enough water came seeping out.

The spring water is so popular that I saw many local residents carried big and small bottles in the morning just to fill up with spring water. Of course admission fee is required to enter this place (left photo below). Visitors would first need to pass through a dense vegetation before reaching the Hupao Spring (right photo below).



Hupao Spring (虎跑泉)

Sculpture depicting the legend can be found beside the spring (left photo below). The source of the spring water is now covered with thick glass (right photo below), but there are other outlets for visitors to collect. According to the tour guide, tea brewed using this spring water will taste better, especially brewed with local specialty: Longjing tea (龙井茶).

Jigong Temple (济公塔院)

This place is where the famous Buddhist monk Jigong (济公) was buried. Jigong was an eminent monk in the Song Dynasty. He was born in Tiantai (天台) of Zhejiang Province. He became a monk in Lingyin Temple (灵隐寺) in Hangzhou, and later moved to Jingci Temple (净慈寺). He passed away in Hupao (虎跑). The Jigong Temple (photos below) is built to commemorate Jigong's legendary life of defying the powerful and detesting the evil.



Jigong is often portrayed in his playful image, which can be found in the sculptures (left photo below) and paintings (right photo below).

The tour guide gave only 20-minutes of free time to explore this place which I felt was sufficient.

West Lake (西湖)

West Lake is a freshwater lake in Hangzhou. There are numerous temples, pagodas, gardens, and natural / artificial islands within the lake. The lake is divided into five sections by three causeways: Su Causeway (苏堤), Bai Causeway (白堤) and Yang Gong Causeway (杨公堤). Gushan (孤山) is the largest natural island and three artificial islands: Three Ponds Mirroring the Moon (三潭印月), Huixin Pavilion (湖心亭), and Ruan Gongdun (阮公墩) stand at the middle of the lake. Leifeng Pagoda (雷峰塔) and Baochu Pagoda (保俶塔) are separated by the lake. Mirroring each other, the basic pattern of "one mountain, two towers, three islands, three banks, and five lakes" is formed (photo below).

The 10 scenic spots of West Lake (西湖十景) was established as early during Southern Song Dynasty, and each named a beautiful description of 4 characters, for example 'Moon over the Peaceful Lake in Autumn' (平湖秋月), 'Evening Bell Ringing at the Nanping Hill' (南屏晚鐘) and 'Three Ponds Mirroring the Moon' (三潭印月). West Lake has influenced poets and painters throughout Chinese history for its natural beauty and historic relics, and it has also been among the most important sources of inspiration for Chinese garden designers.

Having "influenced garden design in the rest of China as well as Japan and Korea over the centuries", the West Lake is listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011.

The tour group alighted in a car park and walked for about 10-mins along Su Causeway (苏堤), which was built by then Hangzhou Governor and famous poet: Su Dongpo (苏东坡) during Song Dynasty.

Three Ponds Mirroring the Moon (三潭印月)

'Three Ponds Mirroring the Moon' is the largest artificial island within West Lake. Also known as Xiaoyingzhou (小瀛洲), the island gives the shape of Chinese Character '田', which featured 'a lake within an island and island within a lake' built during the reign of Wanli of Ming Dynasty.

Reached a pier where we then took a cruise across the lake to 'Three Ponds Mirroring the Moon' island (left photo below). The erected stele with the 4 characters of 'Three Ponds Mirroring the Moon' (三潭印月) was written by Emperor Qianlong (乾隆) of Qing Dynasty during his visit to West Lake (right photo below).



'Three Ponds Mirroring the Moon' is in fact represented by three stone pagodas in the middle of the lake. Each gourd-shaped pagoda is of 2-meters in height and has 5 circular holes (left photo below). During mid-autumn festival, all the three pagodas will be lighted up which produces reflections mirroring the full-moon. Located at the south of the island is the 'Heart-linking-to-Heart' pavilion (我心相印亭) which is the best place to look at the three stone pagodas (right photo below).
A small zigzag 'Nine-turn' bridge (九曲桥) will take visitor further out to the middle lake on the island (left photo below). In the middle of the bridge stand the Kaiwang Pavilion (开网亭) which took a peculiar triangular shape (right photo below).



Several other interesting traditional style buildings are located near the 'Nine-turn' bridge, such as the Swastika Pavilion (卍字亭) in the shape of "卍" (left photo below) and the Ancestral Temple (先贤词) which is on the lake and connected only by two bridges (right photo below).
Maybe was too hungry after walking, I then bought a braised tofu for RMB 2 just to fill up my stomach (left photo below). The tofu was just average in taste. Perhaps the best way to explore the lake was to hide under the shade of some pavilions and enjoying the view and my snack (right photo below).



After 30-mins of free roaming on the island, the tour group then took a cruise ride to other side of the lake.

Huixin Pavilion (湖心亭)

During the cruise back, the island of Huixin Pavilion could be seen (left photo below). The island was named due to its Huixin Pavilion which is one of the 'Four Ancient Pavilions' in China.

Ruan Gongdun (阮公墩)

Ruan Gongdun is one of the three small islands built during the reign of Emperor Jiaqing of the Qing Dynasty (right photo below). At that time, more than 2,400 tonnes of mud from the bottom of the West Lake were piled up to form this island.

Leifeng Pagoda (雷峰塔)

Leifeng Pagoda is a five storey tall tower with eight sides, located on Sunset Hill south of the West Lake (left photo below). Originally constructed in the year AD 975, it collapsed in 1924 but was rebuilt in 2002. The silhouette of the tower could be seen from afar during the cruise ride back. 'Leifeng Pagoda in the Sunset' (雷峰夕照) is one of the ten scenic spots of the West Lake.

Broken Bridge (断桥)

The Broken Bridge is located at the east end of the Bai Causeway of West Lake in Hangzhou (right photo below). In the Southern Song Dynasty, it was also called Duanjia Bridge (段家桥). The current bridge was rebuilt in 1921. 'Remnant Snow on the Bridge in Winter' (断桥残雪) is another famous scenery on the West Lake, and one of the ten scenic spots of the West Lake.

Personally felt that West Lake is slightly over-rated for its charm and beauty; or probably I visited the place at a wrong timing (in a hot afternoon) and season.

Yue-Wang Temple (岳王庙)

This was the third sight of the day tour. Located near the West Lake, it is a temple built in honour of Yue Fei (岳飞) who lived from 1103 to 1142. He was a national patriot and military general who fought for Southern Song Dynasty against the Jin armies. However Yue Fei was wrongly accused and executed (some historian believed he was poisoned). Only till in 1162 Emperor Hsiao Tsung of Southern Song Dynasty then restored his honors, and a gave proper burial to his remains.

Most of the building descriptions and banners were espoused from Yue Fei's famous poem《满江红》which reads:

怒发冲冠，凭栏处，潇潇雨歇。
抬望眼，仰天长啸，壮怀激烈。
三十功名尘与土，八千里路云和月。
莫等闲 白了少年头，空悲切。
靖康耻，犹未雪；臣子恨，何时灭？
驾长车踏破 贺兰山缺！
壮志饥餐胡虏肉，笑谈渴饮匈奴血。
待从头收拾旧山河，朝天阙。

Visitors would first enter through the grand Entrance Gate of two-storey double-eaved building (left photo below). There is a three-character plaque of "Yuewang Temple" (岳王庙) hanging in the middle of the temple. There are couplets on both sides of temple which read "at the age of thirty, my deeds are nothing but dust" (三十功名尘与土) and "my journey has taken me over eight thousand miles" (八千里路云和月), which are famous sentences in《满江红》. Behind the gate is a square courtyard, and on the front is the main hall of the temple (right photo below). In the middle of the hall hangs a horizontal plaque "Heart shines on the sky" (心昭天日), which come from Yue Fei's sigh "the sun is shining" (天日昭昭).



In the main hall, there is a colored sitting statue of Yue Fei, which is 4.5-meters high (left photo below). The plaque "Return my rivers and mountains" (还我河山) hangs high in the hall which is in Yue Fei's own handwriting. Another bronze statue of Yue Fei stand inside the Yue Fei Memorial Hall (岳飞纪念馆) exhibiting Yue Fei's deeds and some cultural and historical materials (right photo below).



On the right side of the main hall is the tomb of Yue Fei with inscription "宋岳鄂王墓" on the tombstone (left photo below). Next to it is the tomb of his son Yue Yun (岳云). Re-built in 1979 according to the architectural style of the Southern Song Dynasty, it is based on the status of a king "王" (status after Emperor; almost equivalent to a Duke in Western context). Stone statues of officials and generals could be seen guarding at both sides of the tomb (right photo below).



One interesting observation was two pairs of kneeling statues facing the tomb of Yue Fei. These four sinners were Qin Hui (秦桧) and his wife (王氏) (left photo below) & Mo Qixie (万俟軼) and Zhang Jun (張俊) (right photo below). They had caused the death of Yue Fei and for centuries these statues had been cursed, spat and urinated by visitors. Now these statues are protected as part of historical relics and there are even signs to forbid such uncivilized acts.



Lotus root Paste (藕莼)

Saw a stall selling 'Lotus root Paste' (藕莼) at a corner of the mausoleum during a short break of 20-mins (left photo below). Decided to give it a try at RMB 5. These were dried pallets of sugared lotus root where it just needs hot water to turn into starchy paste (right photo below). Rather disappointed because there wasn't any lotus root taste, and was not as sweet as I would have expected.



Silk Factory Tour

The tour group was next brought to a silk-factory, which almost the same as the one I had visited in Suzhou. This silk factory is located besides the Song city theme park.

Food Souvenirs

However the silk factory had a rather well-stocked super-mart at its basement. Bought a vacuum packed 'Dongpo pork' (东坡肉) at RMB 53 (left photo below). It is believed that this dish of stewed pork was invented by the famous poet Su Dong Po (苏东坡). Taste was good and fragrant smell emerged during steaming when backed home. While waiting for the rest of the tour group members, bought a black sesame ice-cream at RMB 2 to cool myself in the hot afternoon (right photo below).



Song City theme park (宋城)

Song City theme park, opened in 1996, is one of China's biggest cultural theme park based on Song Dynasty. "Give me a day and I shall return you a thousand years" (给我一天 还你千年) is the slogan of this theme park (left photo below). Buildings and layout are mimics based on the famous painting 'Along the River During the Qingming Festival'《清明上河图》by Zhang Zeduan (张择端) whose statue can be found in the park (right photo below).



Building and Structure Mimics

Perhaps one of the iconic building in the famous painting is the Bianjing city gate which has the slanting staircase that leads to the tower (left photo below). The city gate is tall enough to be seen from any sections of the park (right photo below).
Another famous iconic structure is the wooden bridge (left photo below) where there is the scene in the painting of a boat in danger of losing control in the current and crashing towards the bridge. One striking structure is the archway built with bamboo poles and surrounded by colorful silk strips in front of its store (right photo below). During the Song Dynasty, most of the restaurants and shops were adorned with these colorful decoration called "Cailou Huanmen" (彩楼欢门), which became a fashion at that time.

Recreation of ancient scenes

The theme park is trying to recreate the prosperous scenes of Bianjing (汴京) – capital of Northern Song Dynasty, and Lin'an (临安) – capital of Southern Song Dynasty (now Hangzhou). Often shops or eateries are decorated with banners and signages that resembled those used in ancient times (photos below).



Even store attendants and hawkers are dressed traditionally as the one captured in the clip (video below).

Amusement and Entertainment

A theme park would not survive if solely based on cultural elements, therefore several amusement areas are created to allow visitors to have fun in an "ancient" way (photos below). There is also daily theatrical performance where tickets are sold separately from its admission.

Late Lunch

Due to the tight schedule of the tour, there was no time for proper lunch. Therefore had to take a quick bite at one of the eateries inside this theme park. Ordered a tray of mini-steamed bun at RMB 10 (left photo below) and a green bean soup at RMB 5 (right photo below). Don't be deceived by its looks, the skin of these mini-buns was so tough that only the meat filling was edible.



Probably still hungry, I can't resist the deep-fried aroma of those "smelly bean curds" when walked passed a local snack stall (left photo below). Thus bought a stick at RMB 3 just to satisfy my craving (right photo below). Only then I knew that I'm quite addicted to "smelly bean curds", which many people will keep a distance away from this snack.

Famous Hangzhou People

Several statues of famous Hangzhou people were sculptured in this theme park:



• Sun Quan (孙权) who founded Eastern Wu state during Three Kingdoms (left photo below).
• Chu Suiliang (褚遂良) who was the famous calligrapher and chancellor of Tang Dynasty (middle photo below).
• Bi Sheng (毕昇) who invented the print technology of active characters and type-setting, a first in the world, during Northern Song Dynasty (right photo below).

Longjing Tea Plantation Tour

The second factory visit was to Longjing tea plantation. Longjing tea (龙井茶) used to be an imperial tea during the era of Kangxi Emperor and the tea grown near West Lake is of higher standard than those grown at other area. Since I'm not a Chinese tea lover, therefore didn't buy any tea from the sales counter at the factory.

Lingyin temple (灵隐寺)

This was the last tourist sight of the day tour. Lingyin temple literally means 'Temple of the Soul's Retreat'. It is one of the largest Buddhist temples in China and probably well funded due to its large number of believers. The Lingyin Temple was founded in year 328 during the Eastern Jin Dynasty. The temple was to gain in importance during the Five Dynasties (907-960 AD) when the King of the Wu Yue State initiated a large-scale development of the temple as a sign of his devotion to Buddha.

Temple Entrance

Temple plaque with inscription of 'Lingyin temple' (灵隐寺) was written by ex-Chinese President Jiang Zemin (江泽民) can be seen at the temple entrance (left photo below). Another sight was a screen wall marked with a four character inscription "the Western Heaven is within reach" (咫尺西天) that faced the entrance to the temple (right photo below).

Temple Architecture

The formal entrance of the temple is the Hall of Four Heavenly Kings (天王殿). The principal statue in the hall is the Maitreya Buddha (弥勒佛) and the four Heavenly Kings (四大天王). The Hall of Four Heavenly Kings at the Lingyin Temple is as large or larger than the main hall at many temples, which reflects its status as the center of Buddhism in south-eastern China.

The second and principal hall is the Mahavira Hall, also referred to as the Grand Hall of the Great Sage (大雄宝殿). It is separated from the Hall of the Heavenly Kings by a large courtyard, featuring a raised lawn bordered with trees. The Mahavira Hall stands at 33.6-metres tall and has a roof that is triple-eaved (left photo below). The main statue enshrined within this hall is one of Sakyamuni - Supreme Buddha (佛祖). The present statue was carved in 1956 from camphor wood in Tang dynasty style and coated with 60 taels of gold (right photo below). At 24.6-meters high, including the throne on which the statue sits, it is the largest wooden Buddhist statue in China.


At the back of the Mahavira Hall houses Guangyin Bodhisattva (观音菩薩).

Further uphill and behind the main hall is the Hall of Bhaisajyaguru (药师殿), measuring 20-meters long and 12-meters wide (left photo below), and it houses a statue of the Bhaisajyaguru Buddha, commonly called the Medicine Buddha (药师佛), and his disciples (right photo below).



A new addition - Hall of the Five Hundred Arhats (五百罗汉堂) was built recently to house larger-than-life bronze statues of five hundred arhats, which formed a layout of a Buddhist swastika "卍" (left photo below). Each statue measures 1.7-meters in height, 1.3-meters in width, and weighs around 1 tonne. The arms of the four swastikas joined in the centre where a bronze canopy was erected and is 12.62-meters in height, 7.77-meters wide and occupies 5 square meters. This canopy houses statues of four bodhisattvas at each side: Guanyin, Ksitigarbha, Manjusri and Samantabhadra (right photo below). The canopy is currently the tallest solid bronze structure in the world.

Feilai Feng Grottos (飞来峰石窟)

Another must see sight in the temple is the Feilai Feng grottos. This peak 'Feilai Feng', or literally translated as "flying peak" was named because it is composed of limestone which is different from its surrounding mountains. There are many grottos and religious rock reliefs made throughout the centuries (photos below).



One famous rock relief is the fat image of laughing Maitreya Buddha together with his disciples; which was featured in many magazines and films (photo below).

Admission to the temple was not included in the tour package; an additional cost of RMB 30 was required to enter (photo below).


Hangzhou-Shanghai Train (杭州-上海火车)

The tour group was then transferred to Hangzhou railway station where we took the train N430 that departed from Hangzhou at 1901 hrs and reached Shanghai at 2148 hrs (left photo below). Train seemed to be better than the one I took from Shanghai to Suzhou (right photo below).



Checked in to Nanjing hotel where I had an early reservation before my departure from Shanghai. Had late dinner near the hotel.