Ha Long Bay / Hanoi

Day Four

City Gate hotel

Reached Hanoi railway station at about 6 am and we took a cab (paid by the tour agency) to the old quarters of Hanoi to look for a hotel for some wash-up. We ended up at City Gate hotel (left photo below). Due to some miscommunication by the tour guide, we didn't realized that the breakfast cost USD 2 each (right photo below) and USD 10 for using the toilet! As we don't want to make a scene, we just paid but complained later to the tour agency.



We also bought our train tickets 2 days in advance to Hue at this hotel. Must comment that City Gate hotel had good services where they even agreed to deliver these tickets to other hotel which we'll be staying in the following night.

We then boarded a mini-coach at Hanoi to HaLong Bay.

HaLong Bay

HaLong Bay has an area of around 1,553-sqaure kilometers, including 1,960 to 2,000 islets, which most of them are limestone. The bay consists of a dense cluster of some 1,600 limestone monolithic islands each topped with thick jungle vegetation, rising spectacularly from the ocean.

HaLong Bay was listed by UNESCO as world natural heritage site in 1994. The name 'Ha-Long' literally means "descending dragon" (下龍).

Admission ticket to HaLong Bay at VND 30,000 (paid by the tour agency) was given to us for our cave tour at a later time of the day (photo below).

Tourist Wharf

After about 5-hours ride, we reached the Bai Chay Tourist Wharf (left photo below). Passports again were handled over to the tour agency people for document processing. There were quite a number of different junk boats at this wharf (at least 50 of them), which showed that HaLong Bay tour is becoming well-known and popular among visitors (right photo below).

Junk Boat Stay

Our junk boat, named 'Canh Buom 2', was a three level junk boat that was similar in design with other junk we saw. The lowest deck was occupied by 8 individual guest rooms (left photo below), a kitchen and a storeroom. On the middle deck was occupied by the main dinning hall (left photo below) and two guest rooms. Lounge chairs were available on the upper deck for visitors to enjoy the breeze.

Dau Go Cave

Dau Go Cave, "Wooden Head" or "Wooden Stakes" in English, is on Dau Go Island and it is the biggest natural limestone cave in the Halong area. Dau Go Cave is 27-meters above sea level and visitors must climb 90 rocky steps to reach the mouth of the cave. It has three large chambers, each containing imposing displays of stalactites and stalagmites and historic graffiti dating back to the excursions of the French. Due to the large open entrance, the cave has a humid atmosphere. In the cave's third chamber there is a large freshwater lake.

Do let the imagination run wild as the formations might resemble some of the weirdest forms (photos below).

HaLong Bay Cruise

The boat took a very slow speed to cruise pass the changing beautiful landscapes (photos below).

Floating Fishing Village

Our next destination was a floating platform of a fishing village that sells live seafood / mussels (left photo below). Fishes were reared inside the net; very similar to our "kelong". Passengers would just need to pay for the seafood while it would be free-of charge for the kitchen at our boat to cook them. As the sky already turned dark, we didn't buy any, just watching other passengers buying and the sellers killing those live fishes. Rather cruel of sellers using huge wooden block to knock at those fishes' head; often required several knocks before killing them. Instead we just bought some snacks from this boat parked besides the floating platform (right photo below).

Cruise Dinner

Extra effort was made by the boat attendance to create the dinning atmosphere (left photo below). Even our seafood starter was creatively decorated (right photo below). We had an enjoyable chat with two Australian passengers (both Nurses) who were on a month-long vacation from Cambodia to Vietnam.

We then spent our night on this junk. Surprisingly it didn't feel as we were on a boat; the boat was very stable and had the same basic facilities as those hotels on land: hot water shower and tiled toilet.


Day Five

HaLong Bay

HaLong Bay Kayaking

Had a light breakfast of some fruits and bread, and we were ready for our kayaking activity (left photo below). The junk went back to the same floating platform we went yesterday night. Was glad that we didn't buy any seafood from these floating platform; during the day we could see clearly those dirty nets and polluted waters (right photo below).



We started our kayaking at 9 am and ended at 10.30 am. I must comment that this is the best way to explore those limestone formations up close. We even went close enough to those floating boat to observe the daily life of the boat people.

Lunch

After tiring exercise, we went back to the junk to bath and packed our luggage, while the junk was on its way back to the wharf. Had lunch at one of the restaurants near the wharf (left photo below) and this was where I found another bigger version of the tonic drink; there was more exotic creatures such as cobras, birds and geckos (right photo below).



Thang Long Opera hotel

Took the mini-coach back to the Hanoi, which was another 5 hours ride. Checked in to the Thang Long Opera hotel, located near the old quarters of Hanoi. Though rated as 3-star, this hotel definitely deserved a rating of 4-star; cleaned and spacious rooms were one of the best selling points for this hotel. There were even complimentary local fruits available.



Simple Dinner

It was already passed 6 pm when we walked out from the hotel to the Water Puppets Theater to get our tickets. After which went to hunt for our dinner nearby the theater and found this shop that sells only soup noodles (left photo below). Excellent taste and each bowl costs only VND 15,000 (about SGD 1.50); no wonder I had two bowls of it. We also got all our fridge magnets from one of the souvenir shops near the theater. Streets of Hanoi at night are bustling with activities (right photo below).



Thang Long Water Puppets Theater

Thang Long Water Puppets Theater is located in-front of the Hoan Kiem Lake. Bought the tickets for 8 pm show at just VND 40,000 each (about SGD 4) for first class seats (left photo below). Even fortunate was we were assigned on the first row of the seats, which had unblock view of the puppets. The bodies of the puppeteers were constantly soaked in the waters during performance, which was even tougher and more unique compared to other puppetry (right photo below).



The water puppets show began by introducing the Vietnamese music to the audience (video below).

It was then followed by 17 different scenes that told the stories from common folks to legendary deities and creatures (videos below).

Here are some of the scenes captured using my camera (photos below).





Got our train tickets to Hue when we were back to the hotel, which was hand-delivered to us by the lady boss of City Gate hotel.


Day Six

Had the most sumptuous breakfast at the hotel and the food varieties were comparable to those in a five-star hotel. We were then picked up by a local guide who brought us around to Hanoi's famous landmarks.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

First stop: Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum (left photo below). This is the place where Vietnam's founding father, Ho Chi Minh's body was preserved and kept. No camera, video-camera or handphone were allowed; our bags and cameras were deposited at one of the counters outside this mausoleum. This place was heavily guarded by soldiers and we were told not to talk and had to queue in rows of two while walking into the mausoleum. Ho Chi Minh just lay peacefully inside a glass coffin and was guarded by four soldiers at its corners. The body was so well-preserved that I could even see his mustache and white beard.

As we didn't know we would be visiting this mausoleum, we only wore bermudas and sandals, which was rather disrespectful to their former leader. Luckily the soldiers didn't stop us from entering. After the mausoleum, we then proceed to visit the silt house formerly used by Ho Chi Minh as his humble office. The building still maintained the simple decorations he used to work. As we didn't have any cameras on hand, no photos were taken. We only walked passed the Ho Chi Minh museum (right photo below).



One-Pillar Pagoda

Next itinerary was the One-Pillar Pagoda, built by Emperor Ly Thai Tong who ruled during 1028 to 1054, which looked like a lotus flower (left photo below). However the original was destroyed by the French and what we saw was re-built after 1954. The structure includes 3 parts: a single pillar, wooden square structure and a curved pagoda roof. There is a statue of Guan Yin Bodhisattva worshiped inside the pagoda (right photo below).


Temple of Literature

Next itinerary was the Temple of Literature. The whole complex of Temple of Literature covers an area of 54,331 square metres, including the Exterior (Lake of Literature & Giam Garden), and Interior Area which is divided into five courtyards.

Facing the Literature Temple is an open space, making the vestige appearance looks majesty and holy. It consists of four brick pillars and two stelae, built in 1771, commanding horsemen to dismount (下馬), including doctors, high-ranking mandarins and emperors, getting off their horses to pay homage to the saints and the talented educational center of the country (left photo below).

The first courtyard stood the Great Middle Gate (right photo below), with two smaller gates on sides: 'Attained Talent Gate' and 'Accomplished Virtue Gate', which implies that a successful person should have both talent and virtue.


In the second courtyard is the Pavilion of Constellation (奎文閣) which has 4 square brick pillars supporting the upper attic, with very beautiful red wooden structures with two circular windows and a bronze bell which is only rung on special occasions (left photo below).

On both sides of the third courtyard are 82 stelae, known as the Doctors' Steles, mounted on stone tortoises (right photo below). Each stele recorded details of candidates who successfully passed the state royal examinations held at the National Academy from 1442 to 1779, and thus are a precious historical resource.


In the central area of the fourth courtyard is the Temple of Literature. This place is used for the worshiping of Confucius (left photo below), four most brilliant students of Confucius: Mencius (right photo below), Yanhui, Zengshen, and Zisi, and Ten Chinese Philosophers.



The fifth courtyard housed Vietnam's actual first academy that was established in 1076. However it was destroyed in 1946, but reconstructed in 2000.

Hanoi Cyclo Tours

Had lunch (at own expense) near the temple of Literature. Last itinerary was to visit the old quarters by cyclo. The cyclo was very similar to our Singapore trishaw except that the cyclist was behind the passenger. It was really an unique way to experience the slow pace of looking at the activities of the locals (photos below).





The whole Hanoi tour ended at around 3pm. As there was some time, we decided to walk around Hanoi on our own.

Ngoc Son Temple

Visited to this Ngoc Son Temple (left photo below) is located on an islet in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake. This temple is dedicated to Confucian and Taoist philosophers and the national hero, Trần Hưng Đạo. The temple underwent inclusive repair in 1865, other structures constructed during this time are the Huc Bridge (right photo below), Tidal Wave Defense Pavilion, Pen Tower and Ink Slab. Another icon not to miss is the giant taxidermied tortoise on display inside the temple, which is rumored to be over 500 years old that once lived in Hoan Kiem Lake.

The admission costs only VND 3,000 (about SGD 0.30).


Due to the unfavorable timing of the train from Hue to Ho Chi Minh City, we decided to take a domestic flight instead. Went through several agencies for enquiries, including the hotel concierge and the famous Sinh café. Finally decided to get our tickets from the Vietnam Airlines sales office due to its lower price. The sales office is just located near the Hoan Kiem Lake.

Dinner

After gotten our air tickets, we then went to this Trang Tien Plaza (left photo below) to do a last minute shopping and had dinner at this chain-restaurant called 'Bunta' (right photo below).
Took a cab to the Hanoi Train station. Do note that for metered taxi, their counter is protected by a clear plastic box to prevent being tampered with.

Train to Hue

Real agony began when we boarded the so-called 'First class cabin' at 19:00 hours (left photo below); there was this smell in the cabin and from the bed sheets and blankets (right photo below). Probably had set our standard to the King Express train, we definitely would not take any train again. Luckily we had bought our air tickets from Hue to Ho Chi Minh City.