Yuexiu District (part 2)

Day Two

Took a slow stroll about 15-mins from Xihua Road before reaching Guangxiao Road.

Guangxiao Temple (光孝寺)

Guangxiao Temple stands out as one of the most significant ancient treasures in Guangzhou. With over 1,700 years of history, this Buddhist temple is not only a spiritual sanctuary but also a living museum of Chinese Buddhist culture (photo below).

Due to its long history, there is the popular saying among the Cantonese that Guangxiao Temple predated the founding of Guangzhou city: "未有羊城，先有光孝".

A Glimpse into History

Guangxiao Temple, originally built during the Western Han Dynasty (B.C. 206 – A.D. 9), was initially the residence of a prince before being converted into a Buddhist temple in the 4th century. It became a major center for Buddhism during the Tang Dynasty (A.D. 618 – 907) when the famous monk Huineng, the Sixth Patriarch of Chan (Zen) Buddhism (六祖惠能), was ordained there.

The temple has witnessed the rise and fall of dynasties, surviving wars and renovations while maintaining its sacred aura. Its historical importance has earned it the title "The Foremost of the Five Mountains of Chan Buddhism". Guangxiao Temple was fatally damaged during the Cultural Revolution where most buildings were either destroyed or occupied for secular usage. Some of its main halls have been rebuilt since 1980s to restore back the former temple.

Architecture Layout

While Chinese temples do vary throughout China, many tend to maintain a basic formula in regard to their layout. The iconography is always in-keeping with the traditional style and the same figures can usually be found in each of the halls. Like other Chinese structures, the temple normally faces south. Generally there are three groups of buildings separated by courtyards (right photo). First is the "Front Hall group" where the 'Entrance Gate' and 'Hall of the Heavenly Kings' reside. Second is the "Great Hall group" where the 'Mahavira Hall' and its East and West wings are located. The third is the "Back Hall group" where the central hall is generally the altar of a Buddha or a Bodhisattva, the right housing the funerary tablet of the temple founder, while the left may be the Teaching or Meditation Hall.

General Layout of Chinese Buddhist Temples (using Guangxiao Temple for illustrations)
Entrance Gate (山门) Known as "Mountain Gate", this is the first entrance building with a square in front and usually three gates that represent the doors to freedom from three constraints (photo below). Two muscular guardian deities usually stand at each side of the Entrance Gate in Buddhist temples. The statue on the right side with open-mouthed is traditionally named "Guhyapāda" (密跡金剛) who represents overt violence (left photo below), while the one on the left with closed-mouthed is traditionally named "Nārāyaṇa" (那羅延天) who represents latent strength (right photo below). In Chinese folk religion, they are known better as "Generals Heng and Ha" (哼哈二將), so named because the right statue in the entrance gate usually has its mouth open to pronounce the sound "a", while the left statue in the entrance gate usually has it closed to utter the sound "heng".
Hall of the Heavenly Kings (天王殿) The first main building in the Chinese temple complex is the "Hall of the Heavenly Kings". The hall is named after the four directional gods it is intended to house (photo below). This square hall is often taller than its depth and is a checkpoint through which visitor must pass in order to enter the sacred space of the compound. Passing through the large doors, visitors are normally confronted with an altar in the middle of the chamber. This altar has a statue of the sack-cloth monk "Budai" (布袋). He is a fat figure with a huge stomach and always depicted laughing, hence his nickname the laughing Buddha (left photo below). Often identified with and venerated as the future or Maitreya Buddha (弥勒佛), he was a 10th century Chan (zen) monk in the Wuyue kingdom. Directly behind "Budai" and facing out of the other doorway is "Skanda" (护法韦驮尊天菩薩). Skanda is a helmeted warrior and commander of 24 guardian deities (right photo below). He is a chubby soldier who carries a 'vajra' (lightning bolt) staff and is the protector of temples and the Dharma teachings.Lining the left and right of the hall are four gargantuan grimacing statues. These are the "Four Heavenly Kings" (四大天王). The four kings are powerful guardian gods who defend the Dharma, protect the world and live in the Cāturmahārājika heaven. Virūpākṣa (廣目天王), king of the west is a red-faced figure whose name means 'he who sees all' (left figure in left photo below). He holds a 'nāga' (magical water snake) or dragon and a pearl. He sends his nāga into the clouds where it sprays water down upon his enemies. Vaiśravaṇa (多聞天王) is the king of the north and the chief of the heavenly kings (right figure in left photo below). His name means 'he who hears everything' and he carries a 'chhatra' (umbrella) as a symbol of his status and a mongoose as a symbol of generosity. His umbrella darkens the battlefields and causes winds to blow at his enemies. Dhṛtarāṣṭra (持國天王) is the king of the east (left figure in right photo below). His name means 'he who upholds the realm'. He is the ruler of the Gandharvas (half-animal nature spirits); heavenly beings who are wonderful musicians. He carries a 'pipa' (Chinese lute) and is normally flesh-colored. When he plays his pipa, his enemies are deafened and suffer headaches. Virūḍhaka (增長天王) is the king of the south (right figure in right photo below). His name means 'he who causes to grow'. He wields a 'sword' that he throws into the sky transforming it into lightning to defeat ghosts and monsters. He is often depicted as a grimacing blue, green or black skinned figure.
Bell and Drum Tower (钟楼/鼓楼) The Drum Tower is a two or three storey building that contains a large drum that is used for ritual purposes. In Guangxiao temple, its ground level was converted to the hall for Sangharama Bodhisattva (伽蓝菩萨) (left photo below). The Bell Tower is the mirror image of the drum tower and sits on the other side of the courtyard from it. It houses the bell of the temple and is normally more significant than its counterpart. In Guangxiao temple, its ground level was converted to the hall for Kṣitigarbha Bodhisattva (地藏菩萨) (right photo below).
Mahavira Hall (大雄宝殿) Simply known as the 'Precious Hall of the Great Hero' or the 'Hall of Great Strength', it is the main hall or building in a traditional Chinese Buddhist temple, enshrining representations of Śākyamuni Buddha (释迦牟尼佛) and various other buddhas and bodhisattvas (photo below). Common to see three statues in the main hall, and depending on the temple practice, they can be the following combinations: Three Era Buddhas (三世佛) consisting of Dipankara (燃灯佛), Śākyamuni (释迦牟尼佛) and Maitreya (弥勒佛). Three World Buddhas (三方佛) consisting of Bhaiṣajyaguru (药师佛), Śākyamuni (释迦牟尼佛) and Maitreya (弥勒佛). Three Body Buddhas (三身佛) consisting of Vairocana (毗卢遮那佛), Śākyamuni (释迦牟尼佛) and Locanabuddha (卢舍那佛). Three Saints of the West (西方三圣) consisting of Avalokiteśvara (观世音菩萨), Amitabha Buddha (阿弥陀佛) and Mahāsthāmaprāpta (大势至菩萨). Shakyamuni Triad (华严三圣) consisting of Manjushri (文殊菩萨), Śākyamuni (释迦牟尼佛) and Samantabhadra (普贤菩萨). In Guangxiao temple, the Shakyamuni Triad is worshipped in the Mahavira Hall; with Samantabhadra Bodhisattva on the left (left photo below), Śākyamuni Buddha in the center (middle photo below) and Manjushri Bodhisattva on the right (right photo below).
Library and Other Shrines A library in a Chinese Buddhist temple is a place where full-time and part-time cultivators can gain access to original Buddhist classics. During my visit, the library was under construction (left photo below). Larger temples will have a whole set of other shrines and chambers (right photo below). Depending on the dedication of the temple, they could be for any of the Bodhisattvas. Most commonly, they include a Guānyīn shrine, a Samantabhadra shrine, a Mañjuśrī shrine or a shrine to Kṣitigarbha (地藏菩薩) or a Hall of Arhats (罗汉).
Pagoda (塔) The pagoda is a stupa tower that is normally located to the rear of the temple, but can be found anywhere. Pagodas come in many different shapes and sizes, but are usually a number of storeys and some have a spiralling staircase that visitors can climb to get to the top. Commonly, they are either square or octagonal. Some pagodas, particularly older ones, are made of solid stone and are not hollow or climbable. Guangxiao Temple is home to two significant pagodas: Liuzu Hair Pagoda (瘗发塔) is a small brick tower said to contain the tonsured hair of Huineng - the Sixth Patriarch of Chan Buddhism (left photo below). Twin Iron Pagodas, the oldest and largest surviving iron pagodas in China. Built in A.D. 963, only bottom three levels of the West Iron Pagoda remains while the four levels were destroyed in the 1930s (right photo below). The East Iron Pagoda, built during A.D. 967, is well-preserved standing at 7.69-meters and intricately carved with over 900 Buddha figures.

Tips for Visitors

• Dress modestly (avoid shorts or sleeveless tops).


• Photography may be restricted in certain areas; do check signs before taking pictures.


• Combine visit with nearby attractions like Liurong Temple and Yuexiu Park.

Admission

Admission at CNY 5 can be purchased at the counter besides the temple entrance (photo below).

Left this temple after spending about an hour.

🎫 Guangxiao Temple (光孝寺)
Website:	WeChat Code:
Access:	Ximenkou Station (西门口站) of Metro Line 1, Exit C
Opening Hours:	0830 hours to 1630 hours; opens daily
Admission:	CNY 5 (Adult)

Walked about 10-mins and cutting through the alleys before reaching the Temple of Six Banyan Trees.

Temple of Six Banyan Trees (六榕寺)

Temple of Six Banyan Trees, or Liurong Temple, is a Buddhist temple originally built in A.D. 537. Located in Yuexiu District along Liurong Road, it has a rich collection of cultural-relics and is renowned both at home and abroad.

A Glimpse into History

The temple has been rebuilt several times, and the name has also been changed several times from Changshou Temple (长寿寺) to Jinghui Temple (净慧寺) and finally to its current name.

In A.D. 1100, the great Chinese poet 'Sushi' (苏轼), better known as 'Su Dongpo' (苏东坡), visited the temple while on the route back to the north. A monk asked him to write an inscription for the temple. Attracted by six old banyan trees within the temple compound, 'Su Dongpo' then wrote down two Chinese characters "Liurong" (六榕). Subsequently the temple was renamed to "Liurong" in A.D. 1411. When the temple was rebuilt in 1982, these two characters were engraved onto a tablet and hung above the temple gate (photos below).

Architecture Layout

Covering 8,500 square meters, the Temple of the Six Banyan Trees consists of over 13 buildings. The temple has two vertical building-axis, with the octangular Flower Pagoda at the center.


• Hall of the Heavenly Kings (天王殿)
  
  
  
  "Hall of the Heavenly Kings" is the first hall after entering the main temple gate. The 'Laughing Buddha' sat in the middle with smile all over his face to welcome visitors (left photo below).


• Temple Courtyard
  
  
  
  In the courtyard stood a marble statue of 'Su Dongpo' with his "Liurong" inscriptions on its pedestal (right photo below).
  
  


• Six Banyan Pagoda (六榕塔)
  

  The most eye-catching piece of architecture within the temple compound is the Six Banyan Pagoda (right photo). Standing at 57.6-meters tall, it is one of the oldest landmark and the tallest pagoda in Guangzhou city. The pagoda was originally built in A.D. 537 and maintains the architectural style in early India and ancient China. This kind of architectural style is rarely to see now in Chinese temple. The color of the pagoda's body is red and white, and there are intricate wooden carvings under the eaves and a beautiful bronze pillar depicting 1,000 Buddhist figures on the top floor. Every layer of overhanging eaves is like a blooming bud, and the tower spire is like stamen. Meanwhile, the entire pagoda is like a huge style up towards the sky, therefore the pagoda is usually named as 'Flowery Pagoda' (花塔).

• Avalokitesvara Hall (观音殿)
  
  
  
  Avalokitesvara Hall was reconstructed in 1988 with a building height at 13-meters (left photo below). The Avalokitesvara statue enshrined in front was cast in the Ming Dynasty, and is 1.4-meters tall and weigh 0.5-tonne (right photo below).
  
• Mahavira Hall (大雄宝殿)
  
  
  
  Mahavira Hall was reconstructed in 1984 standing at 14-meters tall (left photo below). Three Buddha statues are enshrined in this hall with Sakyamuni in the middle, Amitabha on the left and Maitreya on the right (right photo below). These three bronze statues were cast in A.D. 1663 with a height of 6-meters and weigh 10-tonnes each, which are the biggest existing ancient bronze statues in Guangdong province.
  

Left the temple after exploring about half an hour.

🎫 Temple of Six Banyan Trees (六榕寺)
Website:	https://www.yuexiu.gov.cn/zjyx/yxjd/zjwh/content/post_8665056.html
Access:	Gongyuanqian Station (公园前站) of Metro Line 1 or 2, Exit B
Opening Hours:	0800 hours to 1630 hours; opens daily
Admission:	Free Entrance

Beijing Road Pedestrian Street (北京路步行街)

Beijing Road in Guangzhou is a historic and bustling commercial pedestrian street for shopping, dining, and experiencing Guangzhou's vibrant culture, offering a blend of old and new attractions. The pedestrian street runs from Zhongshan 5th Road in the north (left photo below) to Huifu Road in the south (right photo below).
A Glimpse into History

The history of Beijing Road can be traced back more than 2,200 years. Since the establishment of Nanhai Prefecture during the Qin Dynasty, this area has always been the commercial center of Guangzhou. This history was marked on a water feature that indicated the establishment of Beijing Road began since B.C. 214 (left photo below).

It is also one of the birthplaces of Guangzhou City, and even now, the remains of the ancient Panyu City still can be seen in this area. The bronze sculpture in the middle of the street illustrated the layout of the Panyu City where the Zhenhai Tower could be identified easily (right photo below).
Even more amazing is the glass-covered archaeological excavations right in the middle of the pedestrian walkway. A vertical slice of Chinese history could be seen through these glass panels where the original road surfaces from five dynasties were layered on top of the other; from the cobblestones of Song / Yuan dynasties (left photo below) to the brickwork of Ming dynasty (right photo below), and flagstone of Qing dynasty.
It's a powerful and tangible connection to the countless merchants, scholars, officials, and commoners who had walked this exact path for over a thousand years.

Commercial Pedestrian Street

Beijing Road caters to every budget and style. Departmental stores such as Grandbuy (广百广场) (left photo below) and Hengrun Plaza (恒润广场) (right photo below) added many luxurious brands inside their retail shops.


Besides big brands along the main pedestrian street, there are also fresh flowers available in the kiosk (left photo below) and even a Youth Cultural Palace (青年文化宫) for public welfare social work, education and culture (right photo below).


Noticed that the popular state-owned Xinhua Bookstore was renovated after my last visit (left photo below). Spanning over three floors, interior of the bookstore is sleek and modern with a café on its second floor (right photo below).
One interesting store was the "Russia 俄货集市" that had gained popular over the past months (left photo below). In addition to selling Russian goods, the store also sells 20 to 30 percent of goods from other countries, such as safflower oil from Kazakhstan, milk powder from Belarus, red wine from Georgia, wafer biscuits from Uzbekistan, and even durian cakes from Vietnam and instant coffee from Malaysia (right photo below).


✍ Update:

Based on reports in Dec 2024, many Chinese media have questioned the sale of Chinese products in these Russian supermarkets; such as beef tendon sausage which is actually produced in Heilongjiang Province of China, and a millet flour with a Russian trademark but was marked as produced in China. Russians living in China also claimed that more than half of these products were "fake" and not found in Russia.

Auntie's Beef Offal (阿姨牛杂)

One of the highly recommended snacks along Beijing Road is the Auntie's Beef Offal. The store is located in a small alley behind the striking red No. 225 Goelia building (left photo below). It has been opened for more than 35 years since 1988 and is exterior is not decorated gorgeously (right photo below).
Renovation inside the store is modest with just a few simple stools and tables (left photo below). This simple environment makes the old Cantonese feel more intimate and nostalgic. Food price is affordable of average cost about CNY 20 (right photo below).

Beef brisket, tripe, beef cartilage, beef intestines, and beef tendons are available (left photo below). Also, the popular Cantonese dish "trotters in ginger and sweetened vinegar" (猪脚醋) is sold in this store. Decided to order a bowl of "plain beef offal" (净牛杂) at CNY 30 to try (right photo below).
The soup base was thick, and its beef brisket and beef offal were very flavorful.

🍔 Auntie's Beef Offal (阿姨牛杂)
Address:	No. 5 Nanshengdongli (南胜东里5号), Beijing Road, Liwan District
Access:	Beijing Road Station (北京路站) of Metro Line 6, Exit B and 6-mins walk.
Operating Hours:	1130 to 2100 hours; daily

Guangzhou Book Center - Tianhe Branch (广州购书中心-天河店)

The Guangzhou Book Center is a large bookstore taking up an area over 18,000-square meters (left photo below). It is located at No. 123 of Tianhe District, and the Victory Plaza VT101 (维多利广场) is just next to this book center (right photo below).
The building is the retail center for books, audio-visual products, electronic publications and cultural supplies occupying six levels (left photo below). In addition, several cafés and fast-food restaurants can be found at its two lower floors. Most promotional activities utilize the spacious building forum at its first floor (right photo below).
Guangzhou Book Center can be reached by Tiyu Xilu station (体育西路站) of Line 1 and 3, followed by 8-mins walk from Festival Walk and accessed through Exit 9. Opening hours from 1000 to 2130 hours.

Tee Mall (天河城广场)

Located at the heart of Tianhe district of Guangzhou, Tee Mall stands centrally located in an area that is the go-to place for shopping in Guangzhou (left photo below). Tee Mall is not just about shopping; it offers a comprehensive leisure experiences with entertainment options like KTV and a cinema. From digital gadgets on the fourth floor to sports gear and books on the fifth floor, Tee Mall caters to diverse interests (right photo below).
Men Wah Bing Teng (敏華冰廳)

Decided to have my dinner in the "Men Wah Bing Teng" restaurant located in the Tee Mall (left photo below). It originated from a standalone "bing sutt" (冰室) in Kowloon of Hong Kong with a history dating back to 1970's. The restaurant is spacious with stylish renovation (right photo below).
Ordered a cup of "Iced Red Bean" (红豆冰) at CNY 22 and plate of "Satay Beef Instant Noodles" (沙爹牛肉公仔面H) at CNY 36 (photos below).



Perhaps had no appetite, food was not that good as expected and was rather pricey.

🍔 Men Wah Bing Teng (敏華冰廳)
Address:	Shop 609, 6th Floor, Tee Mall
Access:	Tiyu Xilu Station (体育西路站) of Metro Line 1 and 3, Exit A
Operating Hours:	1000 hours to 2200 hours; daily

Tsui Wah Express (翠华)

While walking towards the metro station, I happened to spot the Tsui Wah Express located at the basement of Tee Mall exit (left photo below). Bought an egg tart and pineapple bun at total price of CNY 16 (right photo below).


The two pastries were flaky and tasted not too sweet that suited my liking.

🍔 Tsui Wah Express (翠华)
Address:	Shop A014, Room B101, Ground Floor, Tee Mall
Access:	Tiyu Xilu Station (体育西路站) of Metro Line 1 and 3, Exit A
Operating Hours:	1000 hours to 2200 hours; daily

Had a good rest after a satisfying supper.